Overview:

Sustainability 6.5/10
Non-toxicity 7.0/10

JulieMay is a small UK lingerie label making bras, briefs and nightwear from organic Pima cotton and silk, designed for people living with eczema, psoriasis, contact dermatitis and other forms of skin sensitivity.

Highlights

  • Organic cotton and peace silk
  • Named factory, published wages
  • Paper and hemp packaging

Sustainability

score : 6.5/10

Sustainability

Packaging

Orders arrive in paper bags tied with hemp string. Garments are not individually poly-wrapped, which is unusual in lingerie, where each piece typically ships sealed in its own plastic sleeve. There is no plastic void fill and no rigid boxing.

The paper carries no FSC or recycled-content certification, and JulieMay confirms it is still working toward accredited recycled stock. Swing tags currently use a plastic film laminate, and plastic bags are still in use at the warehouse fulfilment stage. All three appear on the brand's own published list of short-term goals, which is a level of candour we see rarely, though stated goals are not yet delivered outcomes.

There is no packaging return or reuse system, no compostability claim or certification, and no disclosure on inks, adhesives or label stock. Paper and hemp is a genuinely low-impact starting format. Certified fibre sourcing and removing the remaining plastic film and warehouse bags would lift this score quickly.

Materials & Sourcing

The range is built from two fibres. Body fabric across bras, briefs and nightwear runs at roughly 78% organic Pima cotton and 22% silk, with 100% silk used for bra cup linings and brief gussets. Both fibres sit high in our materials index, and the deliberate exclusion of polyester, nylon and viscose across an entire lingerie range is rare enough to be worth naming.

Organic Pima is grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilisers, which protects soil biology and keeps agrochemical runoff out of local water systems. It is worth being clear that organic does not solve cotton's core problem. Pima is a long-staple cotton typically grown in Peru and the southwestern United States, where irrigation demand is high, and organic cultivation reduces chemical load rather than water draw. JulieMay publishes no water-use figures for its cotton and names no farm, region or ginner, so the growing-stage footprint cannot be assessed directly. The brand also cites a 91% water reduction figure for organic cotton on its site, a widely repeated industry number that compares rainfed organic systems against irrigated conventional ones and should not be read as a like-for-like saving.

The silk is mulberry peace silk, where moths are allowed to emerge from the cocoon before the fibre is reeled. That removes the animal welfare objection, but it carries a sustainability cost that is almost never mentioned: emerging moths break the filament, yields per cocoon drop, and rearing cycles run longer, so more mulberry land, more leaf and more energy are needed per kilo of finished silk than for conventional silk. Silk is also the most water and energy intensive of the common natural fibres by weight. Using it as a lining rather than a main fabric keeps the volume low, which is the right call, but this is not a zero-impact material and the brand does not present it as a trade-off.

Trims are where the range loses ground. Hooks, adjusters and underwires are acrylic plastic, chosen so that nickel-sensitive wearers have no metal against the skin. Acrylic is a fossil-derived polymer sitting at the bottom of our materials index, and it is neither biodegradable nor recyclable in practice. Straps and underbands use an elastane core wrapped in cotton. Both are small by weight, and both mean no JulieMay piece is fully biodegradable at end of life despite the cotton and silk body.

Energy Use & Carbon Footprint

JulieMay has not measured or published a carbon footprint. There is no emissions inventory, no baseline year and no reduction target, so there is nothing against which progress can be tracked.

Some structural advantages are real. The team works remotely with no office, which removes a whole category of operational energy use. The manufacturing site holds ISO 14001, which requires documented water and energy efficiency practices. Upstream distances between farm, dyehouse and factory are short. 

Carbon offsetting runs through Greenspark, funding cookstove replacement in Malawi and hydroelectric energy in Chile. Consumers should read the impact figures on the brand's site carefully: totals such as 5,500 tonnes of CO2 offset and one million plastic bottles recovered are Greenspark community achievements across all member businesses, not JulieMay's own contribution.

Waste Management

Offcut handling is built into the product rather than bolted on. The decorative bows on the front of every bra are cut from leftover silk, and remaining fabric waste is repurposed for marketing materials. Production runs are deliberately small, which limits the volume of unsold stock created in the first place, and discontinued lines have been donated to Uncommon Threads in the United States and Smalls for All in the UK rather than destroyed.

Returns are a major waste stream in bra retail, and JulieMay attacks it at the fit stage. Free one-to-one virtual fittings, individually patterned cups from 30B to 42DD rather than merged cup sizes, a 180-day return window and unlimited exchanges all reduce the odds of a garment being bought, worn once and discarded. Published care guidance supports garment lifespan.

End of life is the weak point. Bra recycling is signposted through The Bra Recyclers, but only for customers in the United States, Canada and Puerto Rico, and it is not surfaced on product pages where a customer would actually see it. There is no take-back scheme, no repair service and no published waste data for production or fulfilment.

Business Model

JulieMay carries roughly 35 products in total. There are no seasonal collections, no trend pieces, no limited-edition drops and no capsule launches. Core styles have been in the range for years and are restocked rather than replaced.

The commercial model rewards keeping a garment rather than replacing it. Products are priced at a premium and sold on fit, support and durability. The 180-day return window and unlimited exchanges are unusually generous and are framed around getting the fit right rather than around volume. We found no flash sales, no countdown timers, no urgency messaging and no discount cycling. A standing 10% first-order code and occasional partner discounts are the extent of promotional activity.

Marketing focuses on skin conditions, menopause, post-surgery recovery and fit education rather than newness. A customer who buys two bras here is likely to still be wearing them in several years, which is precisely what a slow-consumption model should produce.

Non-toxicity

score : 7.0/10

JulieMay is built around skin safety, and the evidence supports the positioning better than most claims of this kind. An independent Intertek laboratory report confirms that 22 harmful substances, including formaldehyde and flame retardants, were not detected in the fabrics. Allergy UK accreditation covers the absence of azo dyes and nickel and low formaldehyde levels, and the range also carries the National Psoriasis Foundation Seal of Recognition.

The construction removes several common irritants outright. No bleach or fixing agents are used. Fibres against the skin are undyed or lightly processed cotton and silk with no resin finishes, wrinkle-resist treatments or antimicrobial coatings. Hooks, adjusters and underwires are acrylic rather than metal, so there is no nickel in contact with skin, and elastics are cotton-wrapped so no elastane touches the body. Labels are printed rather than stitched in, removing a frequent source of friction dermatitis.

What is missing is a certified chemical management system rather than a test result. The dyehouse holds no OEKO-TEX Standard 100 or GOTS chemical certification, individual dyestuffs are not disclosed, and lab testing on finished fabric is a point-in-time snapshot rather than ongoing input control.

Social Responsibility

score : 7.0/10

Fair Labor

JulieMay discloses more about its manufacturing than most brands many times its size. Production runs through a single exclusive site, Peninsula Knitwear (JulieMay) International Ltd in Hong Kong, employing 23 garment workers. The brand names the factory, states the headcount and publishes the hourly wage: HK$62.5 against a statutory minimum of HK$40. Naming a specific wage figure and its legal benchmark is something we almost never see.

A supplier code of conduct is published, covering fair treatment, non-discrimination, safe working conditions and a prohibition on child and forced labour. The site holds ISO 45001 for occupational health and safety and ISO 9001 for quality management, and is subject to annual audits. The brand states adherence to the UK Modern Slavery Act and reports 75% supply chain traceability. Direct UK employees are paid 20% above the UK living wage.

The limitation is verification rather than intent. There is no independent social audit or labour certification in place: no Fair Trade, SA8000, SMETA, WRAP or Fair Wear Foundation membership. ISO 45001 covers health and safety systems and does not assess wages, working hours or freedom of association. 

Community Engagement

 JulieMay directs 5% of sales to Greenspark for tree planting and environmental projects and a further 5% to Plastic Bank, which pays collectors in Haiti, Brazil, the Philippines and Indonesia for recovered ocean-bound plastic. Tree planting runs through the Eden Reforestation Project. A tenth of revenue committed to giving is a substantial allocation for a business of this scale.

Some of the work is closely aligned to what the brand actually sells. JulieMay partners with the Research Group in Breast Health at the University of Portsmouth, and donates discontinued stock to Smalls for All, which supplies underwear to women and children in Kenya and to UK-based crisis services. The brand has also supported LGBTQ+ causes and women's enterprise initiatives.

There is no brand-level impact report, and the figures presented on the site belong to the wider Greenspark member community rather than to JulieMay specifically, which makes the brand's own contribution impossible to size. 

Animal Welfare

Silk is the only animal-derived material in the range. There is no wool, leather, down, cashmere or fur anywhere in the line, which removes most of the welfare exposure carried by comparable brands.

The silk used is mulberry peace silk, where moths are allowed to complete their life cycle and emerge from the cocoon before the fibre is harvested. Conventional silk production kills the pupae in the cocoon, so this is a meaningful choice, applied across the entire range rather than to a single line. The brand publishes an explanation of the practice on its sustainability page. Products are not tested on animals, and the safety assessments used are dermatological and laboratory-based.

Verification is the gap. JulieMay states that the silk is sourced and certified in China but does not name the standard, the certifying body or the supplier, and no certificate is published

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